On Hiatus in Istria

Taking some time off

 

Sometimes you just have to get away from everything!

Idyllic fishing villages, glittering water and secluded bays – for those who seek relaxation Istria has always been a dream destination. Frist the Romans arrived some time later Austrians and Venetians came. Most recently even Hollywood stars discovered the heart shaped peninsula as the new place to be. I, too, took a trip recently.

Medulin

James Joyce, the famous Irish writer, was wrong. Istria is not, as he described in his letters home, “a back-of-God-speed place – a naval Siberia” or a “long boring place wedged into the Adriatic, peopled by ignorant Slavs who wear red caps and colossal breeches”. Having experienced it myself, it’s quite the opposite: With its picturesque vineyards, avenues flanked by cypresses and beaches that run on for kilometres, the region has become one of the most popular destinations. I travel to the southern tip of the peninsula to Medulin, to take some time off from my hectic life, the constant ringing of the phone and the messages from the office. I want to relax and for once not micro-manage everything. Therefore I try to approach everything with a relaxed frame of mind. Apart from enjoying the exceptional cuisine, my feel-good-programme includes a little bit of sightseeing and a lot of wellness to boost my energy and de-stress. The seaside resort, I picked for this trip, as ideal for my plans: Surrounded by lush greenery, the fresh scent of pines in the air and sunbathed rocks in the blue Adriatic Sea. 

A new lightness of being

After landing at Pula airport – the shrill echo of the office phone still in my ear – I make my way to my hotel which is situated directly at the sandy beach Bijeca. Designed with lots of glass and stone, the modern building seems quite snazzy but still somewhat low-key. What sticks out? The stunning sea view from the terrace, the garden, where the oleander is in full bloom, the great location by the beach and the spacious rooms. On the ground floor there is not only an indoor pool but also a gym and a separate spa area, where I register for few beauty treatments and massages. On top of that the restaurant offers typically Istrian delicacies – even for vegetarians. I can’t really help myself – not that I really want to – I enjoy a late lunch. A Malvazija finds its way quite quickly on to my table. Light and fruity, this white wine is the perfect accompaniment to the handmade truffled gnocchi. After that I need to move and feel the warm sun on my skin. Therefore, I decide to go to the beach, walk  around a little and soak up the atmosphere. While the sky can’t really decide, whether to stain the horizon pink, deep red or fiery orange, I get comfortable on my towel with my feed dipping the warm water of the Adriatic See – just enjoying the moment. I can smell the ocean and hear the rushing waves – and forget everything for a moment.

 

Fažana, Brijuni and my olive oil tasting

Tito's Cadillac

My stay in Istria is filled with moments like these. After all, the peace and the warmth were exactly why I chose to come here in the first place. Still, with an increasing sense of relaxation my thirst for adventure returns. Various trips into Medulin’s surrounding towns and villages help quench my thirst to experience something new. On the very next day I am on my way to explore VeliBrijun and its national park. From the ferry terminal in the fishing village Fažana a boat takes me across and in less than half an hour, I land in paradise. There are evergreen Macchia, cypresses, giant sequoias and even eucalyptus trees. They offer a home to all kinds of native and re-located animals. To gain a better impression of the unique flora and fauna on the island, I take a ride on a small sightseeing train. Unhurriedly it chugs across the island, past Mediterranean natural attractions, the safari park and various archaeological sites. It is no wonder that the former head of state Josip Broz Tito preferred to spend his summers here. But I have to return to the mainland, where I take a short break to discover more of the local cuisine. In a quaint Konoba, a traditional restaurant, I hang up my coat on a chair and order a refreshing aperitif. My siesta lasts longer than initially planned. While outside the wind is whistling, inside the kitchen staff rises to new heights in performance: Black squid risotto, vegetable gratin and pasta are offered with the quasi obligatory wine from the region. After the long lunch, the waiter scrutinizes me once more and says: “A digestif is exactly what’s needed.” I not kidding, a tiny glass of schnapps made from wild pears, was exactly what I needed after such a sumptuous meal. Well then: Cheers or živjeli!

 Having found out, that Fažana is home to one of the best olive oil mills in the world, I decide to stay on for the rest of the day. To be perfectly honest, I am quite curious about the secrets behind the so-called liquid gold. At the Arboretum Pub I definitely find some answers. Nicoletta Balija, the mistress over an olive grove of 7.4 acers, gives me a few tips on how to recognise good olive oil. Of course I can’t let this opportunity pass to buy a big bottle, before returning to Medulin. 

Pula, Verudela and the fish

Arena Pula

In order to learn more about the history and culture of the region I decide to take a short trip to Pula. Even among fans of Croatia, Istria’s oldest city is still considered an insider’s tip. The city boasts a very special flair. Antique Roman ruins, the stark reminders of bygone eras, are juxtaposed with modern architecture, especially in restaurants and bars. Small boutiques and shops entice the passerby to browse and charming alleys invite them for a stroll. My tour begins at the Pula Arena. Where once upon a time gladiators fought and died, film and music fans get their money’s worth. Even a wedding party is taking pictures in front of these venerable walls. In bright sunshine I walk on to discover the most important sights of the city: I am particularly impressed by the forum, the arch of triumph, the gate of Hercules and the temple of Augustus. Unfortunately I am too late to observe the hustle-and-bustle of the indoor market. Whoever wants to buy fresh produce needs to get up early. Next time! 

However, I’m not too late to discover Istria’s underwater world. I kept the best for last. Thus, I take a bus to the Verudela Fortress. Since 2002 it houses the Aquarium Pula with its sharks, skates, rays and various other aquatic creatures. There is no better way to end my last day.